Ten years ago on the evening of January 18 I was balancing a hose and a camera on the roof of my house as I watched huge helicopter water bombers changing course overhead.

The ember attack was relentless, random and devastating. Picture: John Feder, 2003

They would scoop water from a nearby dam, drop it on flames about 2km from where I sat, then make the brief flight north to the landmark of the Curtin shops where they banked hard to the south-west to repeat the cycle.

It was 10 years ago that the much-loved fingers of bushland which had previously poked benignly into the urban folds of Canberra became thoroughfares for deadly fires. The bushfires had manoeuvred for the past week at the city’s outskirts, but on that Saturday, January 18, they swept, as if in a co-ordinated attack, down the highly combustible bushland lanes which led to the heart of many suburbs. When the battle for Canberra finally ended a week or so later, 70 per cent of those stretches of prized parklands, plantation forests, and pastures including horse paddocks had been razed or badly damaged.

More devastating was the loss to citizens. Some 300 houses were gone and their families homeless. Four people had died, and these tragedies were felt by the people of the city. Many more were badly burned and are still recovering to this day.

Canberra is distinct among its peer national capitals of industrialised nations.

It is probably the only one which occasionally has mega-fauna road kill found within a kilometre or so of the national legislature. Errant kangaroos sometimes perish on the roads below Parliament House.

And Canberra is probably the only capital of an industrialised nation where the menace of bushfires is real. As dreadful as that is, it is also fitting that the capital of Australia should be vulnerable to the violence of nature like much of the rest of the country.

The lessons from a decade ago, and the anguish that learning involved, are as real as those in other states blackened by fires.

There is a common and perverse notion that somehow Canberra and its people are removed from the lives of the rest of Australia. The 2003 fires established how wrong that was.

Ten years ago it happened so quickly that the newly-relocated emergency services HQ, just down the hill from my rooftop in Curtin, close to the geographical centre of Canberra, was itself being menaced by fire, primarily from large embers carried by a strong wind.

Grassland around the national Mint a few kilometres to the north of Curtin was ablaze. Other suburbs to the south were hit by even more ferocious fires. Houses in the Tuggeranong Valley 10 kms away were ablaze.

The very routine of nature was upturned by the invasion. Heavy smoke had shut out the sun so effectively by early afternoon that flowers closed their petals hours before sunset and birds roosted for sleep. But the night was lit up by a merciless front of flame.

Among the things I learned from the week was a definition of bravery.

People who do things without an accurate calculation of the risk are impetuous. People who know full well the danger they face but still move towards it are brave.

That includes the fire fighters who could haver died as they battled a front near a water treatment plant but stayed put because they did not want a chlorine tank to explode and send toxic fumes through all of Canberra.

Then there was the fire brigade crew instructed to remain in position awaiting orders. However, they saw a mass of flame their superiors were not aware of heading towards houses.

They not only reported the new fire front but disobeyed orders and drove to it to protect the neighbourhood.

There also was much to learn about the willingness of individuals to help strangers.

A social worker friend volunteered her experience and contacts to help look after people evacuated to a local college, one of four schools in Canberra which became respite centres and even homes for fire victims.

She worked tirelessly and the next I saw her was at the January 26 Australia Day function at The Lodge. I was chatting to her when Prime Minister John Howard joined us.

I started to give him a potted account of my friend’s efforts when he interrupted. “I know,” he said. “That’s why she’s here.”

Howard had met her while touring the evacuation centres and invited her to take part in the Australia Day events. It wasn’t a stunt. Howard wanted to honour her, and through her the other helpers. It was a spontaneous, genuine display of his better instincts.

Another friend lost his house along with his beloved collection of 45rpm records gathered over a generation.

I mentioned this on Sydney radio and suddenly the chap was swamped by discs of all types, sent by listeners who wanted to help. Many of the recordings he would not have played at gunpoint, but the important point was the caring response.

There is still bitterness in some over the management of fire fighting 10 years ago and the failure in warning systems. And the sweep of events in 2003 is still stark to the city’s south where hills once covered by trees are still naked.

And those who lost possessions and loved ones can never regain their lives completely.

Comments on this post will close at 8pm AEDT.

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19 comments

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    • Frank says:

      06:47am | 18/01/13

      Thanks for this article Malcolm, while everyone else is raving about Armstrong and Tomic we have to realise the dramatic effect the fires had on Canberra

    • Dan says:

      08:21am | 18/01/13

      Thanks Mal,

      A very real account, it brought back that horrible Saturday in clear and spine chilling clarity. I learnt a lot that day about what matters when it really comes down to it. We were spared by the change in wind that happened at 6pm but houses in our suburb burnt in front of our eyes. Our car was packed with everything that mattered, our family and our photos. All the other possessions suddenly didn’t matter and even to this day, I struggle to see the world the way I did (which I am grateful for).

      The best thing about the fires was the community spirit. I remember the local radio station saying that they needed matresses at the evacuation centre. Probably only ten minutes later they were asking people to stop bringing mattresses. Everyone did what they could and for a few months, this transient and despised city was a community.

    • Catherine says:

      08:32am | 18/01/13

      A timely reminder of what a shocking day jan 18 20013 was. You make the comment “There is a common and perverse notion that somehow Canberra and its people are removed from the lives of the rest of Australia. The 2003 fires established how wrong that was.”  But what was interesting was the complete lack of media coverage as events unfolded. I live in SA and through family in Canberra was aware in general terms that there were serious fires, but it was not until the next day that national media started to pick up on the story. I was avidly following all news reports and heard nothing (social media was only small back then…). So while you assert the bushfire experience means that Canberra is not so removed from the rest of the nation, this is not the view of the media in this country.  Journalists are put in Canberra to cover political stories only, and life beyond politics is the Bris-Syd-Melb main game.  And while that may be OK, what we are missing is the broader understanding of the vibrant and diverse community that exists in our national capital beyond government.

    • JazzyJess says:

      09:16am | 18/01/13

      Great article. I remember going outside at 3 in the afternoon that day and the sky was literally black. For weeks afterwards we’d find birds suffering from smoke inhalation or burns sheltering in our backyard.

    • SimpleSimon says:

      09:44am | 18/01/13

      Good article. I was only 16, but I remember them well. We were at the coast when the worst hit, and the smoke was so thick even there that the sky turned black. We hauled arse back to Canberra. We live on the north-western edge of town, so weren’t as badly impacted as those on the south-western front, but we could see the fires rolling over the hills a few k’s away and the intensity was palpable.

    • Huey says:

      09:51am | 18/01/13

      MICK, it’s just as well that your Gran is dead ...Dad.

    • dancan says:

      10:04am | 18/01/13

      I remember those fires, I was living in Chapman at the time.  The sky black with smoke and orange from the fires, the streets empty except for the very occasional car or fire truck.  The whole street banded together putting out spot fires and hosing things down, everyone spent the day moving house to house and helping out before we all went to house number 10 for a bbq…a wood fire bbq. The power hand gone so it was huge bbq as everyone cooked up whatever was in the fridge and freezer, candles and torches were our only light and everyone sat around eating and drinking.  Nothing but cold showers for the next few days and several trips to the local school to pick up drinking water.  But we were lucky compared to curtin.

    • Tim says:

      10:56am | 18/01/13

      How was Chapman lucky compared to Curtin?

      Duffy and Chapman were the worst hit suburbs.

    • dancan says:

      03:07pm | 18/01/13

      I had to look on google maps.  I was thinking of curtin as duffy and duffy as rivett for some reason.  I haven’t lived in western creek for about 8 years

    • R White says:

      10:05am | 18/01/13

      Excuse me, but it was 500 homes lost, not 300.

    • Chris on the Coast says:

      10:24am | 18/01/13

      I remember the streetlights in Mawson (south Canberra) suddenly came on it was so dark.  Canberrans were NEVER warned by the ACT government, as the ‘mayor’ of little Tharwa did, to ‘Stay and defend your homes or get out now!: and yet our gallant Arts Minister of the day Bill Wood scurried to the Nolan Gallery in Thawa and started taking paintings off the walls. It’s a story the Canberra Press Gallery never wanted to deal with.

    • David M says:

      10:28am | 18/01/13

      Yes, but why did the fire burn so rapaciously?

    • R White says:

      02:02pm | 18/01/13

      Several years of drought.
      Tinder-dry open forests in difficult terrain to the South and West.
      Several days of high temperatures.
      High W winds on the day, 60km/h gusting higher.
      Existing lightning-struck bushfires in the ranges to the W.

      Near the fire fronts , winds increasing rapidly and contrarily.

      If you’ve never seen active ember attack, think wind-driven glowing chunks, some the size of grapefruit, bouncing across the road faster than you can run, piling up against your fence, your carport, your little wooden under-floor door.

      See the littler ones, flying in the air, catching in your leaf-strewn gutters and those nice stripy blinds you left down. Running in under your carport door, to where the kero and the gas bottle lurk.

      Once the fire conditions are like that, and running before the wind toward suburban streets, hosing your roof off, wearing stubbies and thongs, just won’t cut it.

      A dozen Elvises and several hundred fire trucks wouldn’t cut it either.

      Cheers

    • Allan says:

      11:23am | 18/01/13

      Losing your home is losing your identity and your history, a very distressing experience.
      One question I would like to know the answer to is who in the ACT Govt refused the offer of help by then NSW Fire RFS Commissioner Phil Koperberg.
      As I understand it Koperberg on the 17th of January offered to send many NSW RFS strike teams for property protection on what was forecast to be a blow up day on the 18th.
      As to Canberreans not being warned, the fires started on the 9th of January as a electrical storm rolled in from the west lighting many fires from the Victorian border through to Wee Jasper and points east.
      That plume of smoke that rose above the Brindabellas for eight days was a pretty good warning to my mind.

    • Harquebus says:

      11:46am | 18/01/13

      It is the firefighters that are to blame for the destruction these fires cause. Extinguishing bushfires allows the build of combustibles and ensures that the next is going to be even bigger, hotter and more destructive.
      Never before in the history of our continent has the environment and wildlife had to face the megafires that we are currently seeing. The fires are getting worse because, we are making them worse.
      Allowing bushfires to extinguish themselves will result in low intensity fires that are beneficial to the environment and are more easily confronted when protecting assets. The massive walls of fire that we are currently seeing would not eventuate.
      The roasting alive of our wildlife and the total sterilization of burnt areas is the fault of our brave firefighters.

    • MaryM says:

      12:21pm | 18/01/13

      What rock have you been living under that you have never seen back-burning?? The firefighters are the ones risking their hides to save our lives and properties, wherever they can. I’m appalled you could blame them for the fire damage.

      The problem is not what the firefighters are doing. One thing that is problematic, however, is not being allowed to back-burn in reserves. They are “managed for conservation”, which means doing absolutely nothing to them. Firefighters and forest managers have long argued against this approach to wildlife reserves. You’re a total barstool for blaming them. It’s the environmental movement we have to thank for this.

      Also, it might be worth noting that we are entering some pretty extreme weather conditions here. If due to anthropogenic climate change or natural climate variability is another argument, but it’s hard not to see a pattern of hotter, dryer summers. D’you think that might have something to do with the increased wildfire activity? Just a thought.

    • Harquebus says:

      01:38pm | 18/01/13

      If there is something to burn, nature will burn it. We should be living with fire not fighting it. Just how intense do you want these fires to get? You’ve seen the damage, well, it’s only going to get worse.

    • TKS says:

      02:04pm | 18/01/13

      Like most people living in Canberra on that day my memories are as fresh as if it was yesterday. I remember day becoming night mid-afternoon. I remember the ash floating in the air in the days after. Most of all I remember listening to one of the local radio stations and hearing increasingly panicked people phoning up. Some in tears not knowing what to do. Others frantic because roads were being closed and they couldn’t return home. I remember one lady whose kids were home alone and the road to her area had been closed. She was near hysterical on the radio. There was another man who was furious because rubber-neckers were coming to see the fires clogging the roads for locals and emergency services. I remember waking up the next morning and hearing on the TV that many hundreds of homes were gone and that a lot of people were missing. I remember the dust storm that blew through maybe a week later covering my whole flat with ash. It was even in my sheets on my bed. So for the second time in a week I had to clean the whole house down. I don’t think I will ever forget those panicked voices on the radio though.

      p.s. The number of houses lost were about 500 (not 300)

 

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