Dubai was, for me, one of those places that held an almost mythical appeal. Never one to shy away from retail therapy in fairly healthy doses, I had imagined the Emirates jewel to be a heavenly oasis filled with cool, crisp shopping centres, stocking anything and everything you could possibly need. Okay, want.

Workers put the finishing touches to a massive billboard at a Dubai shopping centre. Photo: AFP

There would be miles and miles of clothes, shoes and accessories ready to be snapped up by those eager to sate their consumerist urges. The odd sale, too, to tantalise the bargain hunter within, each store complete with kind and considerate multi-lingual assistants waiting to produce anything your heart desires in an instant.

Well, having arrived in Dubai for the first time recently I can confirm - I was 100 percent right.

But when I got to the fantastic shopping mecca of my dreams, something wasn’t quite right. And it took me a while to work out why.

For those who haven’t been, Dubai is home to the world’s biggest shopping malls, unfathomable in size and housing everything from supermarkets, jewellery stores and electronics megamarts, to the names that are synonymous with shopping: British department store chains like Harvey Nichols and Debehams, New York legends like Saks Fifth Avenue and Bloomingdales, and the French equivalent Galleries Lafayette.

And that’s all before even looking at the smaller boutiques from across the world.

There’s not just one enormous shopping centre in this tiny Middle Eastern Emirate - there’s half a dozen, with one even housing indoor ski fields. Yep, they have snow in the desert.

So it’s fair to say that even the most addicted and dedicated shop-a-holics could gorge to the point of exhaustion here. It sort of defies belief. But it wasn’t until I wandered through the Mall of the Emirates on my last day in Dubai that I realised why it wasn’t quite the “heaven” I imagined.

The whole experience felt cheap and soulless.

In no way do I mean that to be a reflection on the country itself nor its inhabitants - but in the rush to cash in on this booming region over the past few years, the retail moguls appear to have erased an identity. 

Across town at the gold and spice souks, which I also visited, there is still a whiff - albeit faint - of ancient Arabic culture, of the attitude and enthusiasm which made the region attractive in the first place.

There, spending money was exciting, with an old-world charm - good natured bartering is still expected and practised in earnest, making for an authentic experience dating back thousands of years.

But in the acres of fluro-lit malls, all that is lost.

As the region tries to shield itself against the remaining ripples of the global financial crisis, it’s the retailers who must surely feel the brunt.

That being said, it’s undoubtedly a great position for shoppers - and I admit to taking advantage of some good bargains.

But what’s next?

It seems the retail sector is living on borrowed time, desperately hoping the “boom” returns with gusto - but surely it won’t be long before the international chains cut their losses, pull down their sale signs, pull out their stock and leave these much-lauded malls half-empty.

It’s a scene not unfamiliar in other areas of Dubai - buildings are half-finished, constructions stalled as developers bust under the strain.

It’s enormously sad for a city that held such promise, and for a while dined out on the opulence it produced - to the world’s clearly audible applause.

But the financial greed to build and fuel the biggest experiment in consumerism hasn’t worked.

And while I never thought I’d say this - I’m not sorry. It’s kind of ugly.

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22 comments

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    • T.Chong says:

      06:14am | 21/07/10

      Lisa, were you looking for a SATC moment, like a 5th member of the gals gang ( much like being the 5th Beatle)  ?
      Retail as therapy ? now that has all the answers.
      Being a hard nosed reporter, did you ever stop to think why the mega malls werent teeming with the “guest “workers who actually make the country function?
      Best not to think too hard, dont want the retail-fantasy-land bubble to burst.

    • Mick says:

      08:39am | 21/07/10

      Good the sooner they fall over the better. They where always going to be hollow places, built on the back of slave labour for westerners whose ways they despise, but know they need. Rather then spend thier “wealth” on something they might be able to sustain (like thier rich culture) they built something they thought would make them big bucks and all it did was leave them with big debt. Unfortunately it wont be the rich people who suffer.

    • mareeS says:

      06:19pm | 21/07/10

      In the 1960s Dubai was still a mud-brick settlement beside the creek, and the wealth of the country was counted in camels. Then oil was discovered and here we are, the oil is gone and the building boom has hit the wall. Now they’re importing camels from Australia.

    • Hermano says:

      09:11am | 21/07/10

      “where shopping has no soul”...

      That you were expecting soul in a shopping experience saddens me.  You go there expecting the world’s biggest shopping mall and, when you find it, deride it as ugly and soulless.  I could have told you that it would be soulless before you even left Australia.
      You said yourself: “the financial greed to build and fuel the biggest experiment in consumerism”.  I think that sums up these sorts of places and the people that are attracted to them.  Greed and consumerism: acquisition for acquisition’s sake. 

      You can’t buy soul, not in the biggest mall in the world, or with every dollar that DubaiWorld has squandered.

    • Sheedy's Left Foot says:

      09:37am | 21/07/10

      I guess you don’t know a great deal about Dubai if you expected Arabic culture. Sort of like going to Disneyland Paris and expecting to be in a world of Gallic charm and being upset that there is a giant mouse running the show.

    • skinman says:

      02:00pm | 21/07/10

      Sarkozy’s hardly a giant.

    • DaveC says:

      09:50am | 21/07/10

      A shopping mall with no soul? Dear God in heaven, hallowed be your red spot specials. Let’s all don our black Chanel arm bands, kneel on our Freedom Furniture woolen rugs, face Westfields, and pray.

    • Zaf says:

      10:37am | 21/07/10

      You disliked Dubai because it wasn’t ancient?  But Dubai ISN’T ancient - most of it - buildings, population, economy, everything - came into being within the last fifty years.  You feel the retail moguls erased an identity?  Actually they created one - where the Mall of the Emirates stands now there once was nothing but sand.  And the population of Dubai is overwhelmingly non-Emirati - it’s a city of immigrants from all over the world, not just the Gulf or even the Arab states.  There are probably more Philippinos there than Arabs.  You may not like Westfields, but it seems a bit unfair to blame it for being itself. ??

    • P. Darvio says:

      10:49am | 21/07/10

      Oh Dear - their poor poor Muslim brothers in Gaza are starving yet these Muslims are building temples to the holy dollar and blame the West for everything that’s wrong in their way of life.

    • Peter says:

      11:04am | 21/07/10

      Can you think of any good investment opportunities in Gaza? Bomb shelters perhaps?

    • sarah says:

      11:11am | 21/07/10

      Oh well, you went to an Arab country wanting an Arab market, and saw that they had what they wanted - a mall. How are they want western things instead of maintaining old style things for tourists’ pleasure.

    • Lau says:

      11:39am | 21/07/10

      Yep, agree with you!  We went to Dubai before the economic crisis and found that it was a city not quite sure of it’s place.  Glitzy, glamourous and soul less are right, until you have a look behind that to see the poor buggers building this monalith city and the poverty and danger they have to endure to earn a living.  That being said, I enjoyed the experience of Dubai and will one day go back to have a look at the finished product.

    • James says:

      12:50pm | 21/07/10

      This could apply to shopping equally to Singapore, Hong Kong, Much of Mainland China and most shopping centres in Australia.

    • DG says:

      01:00pm | 21/07/10

      i have go to Dubai regularly for business, in fact i researched the market in November and started a buiness up there in December and now have a profitable and growing business there now, one which is extending out into other emirates already and as well into KSA

      yes its brash, brassy and souless- sort of like Las Vegas but no gambling and yet its still a great place to centre ones self in the region to start a business.
      dont be fooled by the malls and sourrounds as a metaphor of failure- there is tremedous opportunity in the region and Dubai will be a hub for it still

    • Anthony says:

      01:49pm | 21/07/10

      The point of the article is if you travel with pre conceived ideas then you will be dissapointed. The thing that I noticed about Dubai is that it survives tough times because of “contract” labour. These contractors from the sub continent are basically slaves. That for me was the surprise about Dubai and that took the shine off my holiday there.

    • Lau says:

      04:40pm | 21/07/10

      Agree, sitting in my 6 star hotel looking a the poor blue overalled slaves- not fabulous

    • Damocles says:

      02:36pm | 21/07/10

      Bring back Lawrence, as the filthy rich Arab oil sheiks are lost in the desert of excessive wealth and bad taste. They thought they could beat the filthy western infidels at their own consumerist game and have fallen flat on their dishdasha!
      Sad days when the oil runs out and the west finds an alternative!

    • TheRealDave says:

      04:00pm | 21/07/10

      ‘Bring back Lawrence’ You mean that overrated clown who minced about the desert whilst the Australian Light Horse and Allenby’s Desert Army did all the fighting and dying and the Brits let the Arabs take credit in order to sir up Arab Nationalism against the Ottoman Turks?

      That Lawrence?

    • Mongolloyd says:

      02:23pm | 28/07/10

      The west has an alternative - natural gas. A third of the worlds reserves are in the gulf. Sad days? This region will continue to grow at a rapid rate.

    • Ellie says:

      04:09pm | 21/07/10

      I think what Lisa was trying to get at is that consumerism is ugly, wherever in the world it is. I would tend to agree- and I was once a self confessed shopaholic. To shopaholics the shopping centre is a romanticised mecca. I watched a doco on Hong Kong last night and at the end I felt slightly ill at the level of materialism. Shopping has lost it’s lustre for me.

    • Damocles says:

      05:01pm | 21/07/10

      @TheRealDave…...NO, Lawrence Welk, the great American accordionist, band leader and TV impresario. If he couldn’t get the Arabs to dance to a different drummer I don’t know who could!

    • Matt says:

      09:41pm | 01/08/10

      “the retail moguls appear to have erased an identity”

      No they haven’t. The Arabic identity is still there, it’s merely been augmented with other things. Things that the Arabs also want, such as cinemas, malls, ski-slopes, waterparks, fancy restaurants, Porsche dealerships and so on.

 

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