Standing outside the Unity Hall Hotel, in Darling Street Balmain, Jan doesn’t hold back. She stands for everything that Old Balmain was, working class, down to earth, unpretentious and with a village atmosphere.

Jan doesn’t like how the place has changed. To her Balmain used to be a “kooky” place, with a sense of community but now “we call it Yuppieville… it’s the people moving in that can afford the extravagant rents and the house prices.”

Further down the road at the London Hotel, you can still see the vestiges of the Balmain of yesteryear. It is buildings such as the London Hotel (built in 1870) hold an important place in Australia’s political and social history.

Billy Hughes began his rise to the Prime Ministership in the pubs of Balmain becoming the first President of the Waterside Workers’ Union, back in the day when Sydney was still a working port.

Former Premier, Neville Wran went to school in Balmain just down the road from the London Hotel.  It was he who famously said “Balmain boys don’t cry”. Referring to a toughness that you needed to have growing up in this rough and tumble a working class area.

But the Balmain of old is slowly dying, as the area morphs into a cosmopolitan oasis for the “young upwardly mobile professional” otherwise known as the Yuppie.

In the last decade Balmain has been transformed as professionals have moved in displacing the Balmain of old. The result has changed Balmain into what might best be described as a natural breeding ground of the modern Yuppie.

A walk down Darling Street, Balmain, is instructive.

Within the same 600 hundred metres there a total are 8 coffee shops, 3 independent book stores and 7 Thai restaurants.

In the same stretch you can also find an assortment of high class clothing stores each with an increasingly unusual name, so from Pearl, you pass Artson, then Cando Kostula, Andiamo, and Stelitzia (which personally I think sounds like a disease you might catch…). Finally there is Zeblu which again sounds like something you might use to treat your Strelitzia.

It’s the shift in the shops of Balmain that people comment on when you ask them how the area has changed over the last few years.

Some might say that New Balmain feels a bit like it is imitating Melbourne with its coffee culture and designer shops.

As local resident Olivia comments “the coffee shops are sometimes 20 people deep and you’ll see people in there sitting on the milk crates, just posing”.

But is it that simple?

Is Balmain this pretentious suburb of elites made famous by Paul Keating’s description of the so called ‘Basketweavers of Balmain’ or do we label it because the suburb has come to fit a stereotype in our collective mind?

Does Balmain inspire a certain amount of tall poppy syndrome, where we label them pretentious because of a perception of success and superiority?

Certainly there aren’t many places in Australian where you can get the Balmain shopping experience. Clothes are one thing, where else can you get:

French Trimmed Pork Chops at $49.99 a kilo (slightly more than you’d pay at Coles or Woolworths)

Juniper Berries 2kg jar $70 (for those who don’t know these are apparently used for aromatherapy and for the treatment of asthma and sciatica)

Leng Zhu Dragon Ball tea at $22 a 300 gram bag (which has a unique favour as a rare white tea)

Natural Instinct Dishwashing soap $11.95 a kilo (apparently its organic which I guess is what you want in your dishwashing soap…)

And let’s not forget the Adrian Zumbo pastries (as seen on Master Chef) just ask these guys.

But does a taste for the finer, and dare I say weirder (i.e. organic dishwashing soap), things in life lead us to judge the people of New Balmain too harshly?

The days of Old Balmain died as Sydney changed from an industrial city, with its working port, into a modern metropolis centred on the service economy.

Thus, the emergence of ‘Yuppieville’ is really a reflection of the changes in Sydney over the last couple of decades.

And when you look past the designer shops and plethora of Thai restaurants you find that thing that most locals comment on is that today’s Balmain still retains the ‘village atmosphere’.

Just ask these guys…

What do you like about Balmain?

Alicia “I love how its easy going… its dynamic… there’s no pretenses you be what you want to be and come down to the shops in your pyjamas if you want… oh and its friendly…”

Olivia “It has a nice village feel, people say hello, they’re always friendly”

Leanne “the coffee shops, village atmosphere, close the city, really good views of the harbour and city, the people, its multicultural… it’s a bit of Melbourne”

Jen “what is there not to like? There’s a real community feel… its dog friendly”

Most commented

17 comments

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    • rufus says:

      05:56am | 07/09/09

      Oh please - not the tired ‘village atmosphere’  claim again. Having grown up myself in a tiny one-shop village and later spent time around Balmain, the latter does not have a village atmosphere. Your story misses the real way Balmain has changed yet some things haven’t changed. It still has more pubs than just about anywhere else, a remnant of the days when dock and factory workers crowded into them. Nowadays some of the pubs stay open late/all night and drunken thugs hang around them. A friend of mine was badly bashed when minding his own business on the street and trying to catch a taxi. It’s a place where you want to watch it late at night. Otherwise, it’s all good. Good shops, good cafes and restaurants and all close to the city. Better not to take a car in there. Who cares if the shops are a bit pricey? There are plenty of other suburbs where the shops are boring though cheap, and Balmain has a weekend market with reasonable prices, and other markets just up the road.

    • Rationalist says:

      06:34am | 07/09/09

      Bomb it all, goddamn hippy scum.

    • Russell says:

      07:36am | 07/09/09

      The people who talk about “villages”  the most are usually the ones most keen on keeping everyone else out. The three biggest political issues on the Balmain peninsula are:
      1. Stopping cruise ships from docking at White Bay
      2. Stopping the Metro from coming to Rozelle
      3. Keeping uni students away from Callan Park
      Balmain has a “Green” Mayor and it is his party which is campaigning hardest on these – all specifically designed to keep undesirables (the proles and “foreign” students) a long way away from Darling St.
      Remember, these people are progressive.

    • T says:

      09:11am | 07/09/09

      Yuppies? How quaint. I didn’t know they still existed

    • Liz says:

      09:13am | 07/09/09

      So in other words make it into a ghetto? As the decades roll by you notice how suburbs rise and fall, are popular and in disfavour.In my part of the country it has ruined a good,family country beach because the council has allowed McMansions to be built.Another decade they’ll be knocking them down because they have been badly built and no-one wants them anymore and the smart crowd have moved on somewhere else.

    • Nathan says:

      09:40am | 07/09/09

      Yuppies? More like anti-development, earth-ship inhabiting, soap-dodging, hemp-wearing, low-carb-beer swiilling, NIMBY scum.
      Build the metro, build the cruise ship docks, widen Iron Cove bridge to 10 lanes each way; make it as easy as possible for the Westies to get to the pubs.

    • Melbournian says:

      10:38am | 07/09/09

      What a putrid city you all live in. Talk of ‘keeping people out’.

    • yornup says:

      01:56pm | 07/09/09

      To go slightly off topic, I think you’ve missed the point of the ‘weird’ “organic dishwashing soap”. Now, I might be wrong and thus bringing shame and embarassment upon myself, but isn’t the premise of organic dishwashing soaps that they are a) biodegradable and b) harsh-chemical free? I hardly see how these could be considered “weird”. “Pretentious” sure, but not “weird”.

    • Nic Christensen says:

      03:20pm | 07/09/09

      yornup -  no shame or embarassment -  in fact I think you may have me there - but to be honest I just saw the organic dishwashing soap and though that it seemed unusual but I take your point.

    • Dave C says:

      07:32pm | 07/09/09

      The interesting thing about the place is this. It costs millions to live there and hundreds to go out and eat there. So you have to be rich..

      BUT they are left wing dripping wet commos. You know the type that appear at at a “Land rights for asylum seeking lesbian terrorist suspects and whales” rally waving placards saying “the greens” and “socialist alliance”.

      How is it that people in this suburb (and most of the rest of Albos electorate are so rich and pretentious yet they vote left wing labour or green.

    • Russell says:

      10:06pm | 07/09/09

      Dave C, they are not voting Labor, they are supporting the Greens and the Liberal Party in that order. On the local Council there are 6 Greens, 3 Libs, 2 Labor and one Independent (actually a Green).  Labor would come a distant third in a State or Fed election if there was a poll now. That’s because Labor insists on doing “annoying” things like building public transport systems – the Metro.
      Who needs public transport when you have a Lexus?

    • Al says:

      08:08pm | 09/09/09

      Dawn Fraser, most people’s idea of a Balmain resident, ended this argument on ABC radio’s Grandstand last weekend.
      In the crowd for a league game, Dawn harked back to the Balmain of her childhood, then ran through the basket-weaver years and gentrification.
      She signed off by saying Balmain had come back to the way it was before WWII: lots of kids and families mucking about in the street.
      I doubt too many contributors are qualified to challenge that.

    • alana says:

      04:21pm | 09/12/09

      I’ve lived in balmain all my life, I wouldn’t live anywhere else.
      However, I wish other people would live elsewhere (I’m talking about Leanne who likened Balmain to Melbourne. How dare you?!)
      I remember a simpler time when I didn’t have to jump off the sidewalk and into oncoming traffic because two women pushing giant prams insist on walking side by side regardless of who’s coming at them..
      I remember a time when there were more pubs than cafes..
      I remember a time when there was no apartment complex off Hyam street (which is where all the yuppies are living stuffed in there like sardines, serves em right)..
      If Macdonalds or any of those chains move in I’m gonna blow said store up!!

    • nonphixion says:

      02:27pm | 01/08/10

      Allot of people who actually grow up in Balmain and don’t look at it from an outside view will tell you that Balmain has a fighting spirit and the kids and people growing up especially feel this. In a way its the older people and the many pubs beside the rich history that give them a sense of pride and a don’t back down attitude. “pretentious”, Someone who doesn’t know Balmain or many people who live there would say something like that.

    • Char says:

      11:36am | 15/11/10

      I’m from western sydney, and I really think it’s a lovely place to visit and the weekend markets in the church are tops. And the little narrow streets and sandstone cottages…what a treasure trove. That’s my impression as an outsider. I think a lot of those cafes and quirky retail outlets are there for the tourists too.

    • Jessica says:

      01:07pm | 18/01/12

      I live next door to a drug dealer (known to police) and down the road from several government housing estates - it’s anything but pretentious!

 

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