The signature dish at the Prairie Hotel , in South Australia’s Flinders Ranges, is its Road Kill Grill ($30), a mix of kangaroo and emu fillet on mash, with a camel sausage tossed in for good measure.

Why salute the coat of arms when you can just eat it?

I can recommend the kangaroo tail soup too.

Reflecting on what it means to be Australian inevitably leads to a debate about our national dish. The Daily Telegraph asked the question on Australia Day, with Masterchef’s Poh Ling Yeow telling the Tele salt-and-pepper squid has taken over from fish and chips as our top tucker. It follows on from a major survey in The Sunday Telegraph where people said Australia’s national dish is the meat pie (37 per cent), followed by roast lamb (28 per cent), lamingtons (12 per cent) and pavlova (11 per cent).

A pie? Gee, a lot of those surveyed must also go to the footy. Tucking into a rat coffin suggests Australians are adventurous eaters, since the contents of most pies are the leftover bits even a sausage rejects.

The only reason you’d pick a pav is to annoy New Zealanders, who think they invented it. As for roast lamb. C’mon, as a tennis player now watching the Australian Open on telly with the rest of us, would say. Sam Kekovich is a genius.
He’s making us eat like Poms and pretending it’s Australian. We’ve gone from riding on the sheep’s back to chewing on it.

Looking at a typical café menu, maybe Poh has a point. But if we are what we eat, then a study released by Meat and Livestock Australia, titled “Last Night’s Dinner”, says we’re half Italian, a little bit Asian, and love roasts. MLA surveyed 1421 people in May 2009. A staggering 73 per cent cook steak and veg at least once a week, followed by lamb chops (49 per cent), roast lamb (47 per cent), then spaghetti bolognaise (38%). About a third knock up a chicken stir fry weekly.

So what do you reckon are truly Australian dishes? Most of our food isn’t original, especially the meat pie. We’re cooking the hand-me-downs of the people who’ve made this country their home. But that’s the best thing about our food. We nick ideas from around the globe and shape them in our own image. Luckily, we have some of the freshest and certainly the most diverse range of ingredients you’ll find anywhere in the world.

Our most famous chef, Tetsuya, uses French and Japanese influences to create dishes that are distinctly Australian. South Australian chef Cheong Liew’s Chinese-Malaysian background helped change the face of Australian restaurants over three decades. I tried a duck and abalone dish by Cheong last week. An imagination like that flourishes best in Australia.

Masterchef’s Matt Preston says the barbecue is the way Australians express their culture – a bit like the Chinese with a wok.

If we’re going to have a National Dish, it has to say something about who we are.

It should have a sense of humour, stick it up authority, reflect our multicultural heritage and you need to be able to cook it with a beer or glass of wine in one hand.

My nomination goes to up-the-duff chicken. Say what? Open a tin of beer, shove it up the chook’s date, then stand it upright on the BBQ. Food writer Matthew Evans has a recipe here .

Some people bang on about eating the wildlife, but for the most part, I wouldn’t bother. The exception is the Sydney rock oyster, the finest bivalve in the world.

Skippy’s a bit too fiddly. Overcook it and it’s a tough as doing PR for Osama Bin Laden. That said, I’ve tried kangaroo and vegemite stir-fry by Hong Kong chef Alvin Leung and it’s surprisingly good.

Emu exists only to make turkey appear moist and soft and the only reason you’d eat crocodile is to beat it to the punch. If circumstance conspires to deliver me to a croc’s jaws, then I hope I’m as tough, rubbery and flavourless as my nemesis.

Meanwhile the humble prawn cocktail withstood the test of time to become an iconic Australian dish. It’s enjoyed a revival in recent years, seasoned liberally with retro chic at restaurants such as Neil Perry’s Rockpool Bar and Grill. If you’re looking for proof that God is Australian, then surely it took Divine Intervention to figure out a way to legally get tomato sauce on seafood. And forget micro-leaves and fancy lettuce, a good crisp iceberg still does the job like a Crownie on a 40°C day.

But there are no prawns inland. Perhaps we could tuck into feral animals.

The goat curry and rabbit pie at the Prairie Hotel are my favourites. Between Nyngan and Broken Hill on the Barrier Highway, you’ll see so many feral goats that every Aussie could take one home for dinner and come back for second helpings the next day. And just as I was about to say, if only I had a recipe for cane toad, would you believe this story about a Queensland bloke who wants to serve them up to the Chinese popped up.

I’m thinking toad spread between two Weet-Bix, rolled in chocolate and sprinkled with coconut. Imagine picking up a gift box of six at the airport to take home to relatives. What’s more Australian?

Most commented

29 comments

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    • T.Chong says:

      08:32am | 27/01/10

      No vegemite on toast? or Wagonwheels? You unAustralian, namby pamby chardonny / latte sipping pinko eliteist.!

    • Simon Thomsen says:

      10:16am | 27/01/10

      The Wagon Wheel was invented by an English-born Canadian and the Poms regard it as one of their icons too. It was first made and launched in the UK. George Weston’s Sydney biscuit factory closed down and was turned into flats for chardy/latte types (surely they’re all drinking KIwi sauv blanc nowadays?). I miss the wonderful smell you used to get driving past there. Arnotts bought the brand in 2003. That means American companies own both Vegemite and the Wagon Wheel.

    • Wayne Hutchins says:

      08:38am | 27/01/10

      I will give you a recipe for cane toad but I am pretty confident they won’t print it here. You don’t eat it though, you smoke it…now where did I leave the back of my head….

    • Nola James says:

      08:47am | 27/01/10

      Your comment:

      Nice work Simon. Welcome to The Punch.

    • Brad Coward says:

      08:52am | 27/01/10

      The humble meat pie will always be the national dish.  I love salt and pepper squid but have serious doubts that I will ever be able to find a fresh serve waiting in the hotbox of the servo in Bourke or Cunnamulla should I stop for petrol and a feed.  The good old pie will be sitting there calling my name.  Of course, I shall answer !

    • MarK says:

      08:57am | 27/01/10

      Not sure if you can claim it as uniquely australian
      They do it in America to, it was in NBC weatherman Al Rokers big bad bbq book cookbook many years ago

    • bob says:

      09:33am | 27/01/10

      “rat coffin” - love it

    • Simon Thomsen says:

      10:18am | 27/01/10

      Did I see you on that fab doco Cane Toads - an unnatural history. You’re not from Nimbin are you Wayne?

    • Wayne Hutchins says:

      12:01pm | 27/01/10

      No mate, just well read….at least until Kevy introduces his internet block anyway…

    • cast iron gutz says:

      10:54am | 27/01/10

      to become the toad, you must smoke the toad… and emu is fantastic smoked, but meat pies?... bloody ripper, but ive always liked chewing on ears, nostrils and hooves, and ive never been fussy about whos.

      chuck that upside down into a bowl of pea soup, add a squirt of dead horse, and theres your traditional* ( south ) aussie tucker.

      http://www.samemory.sa.gov.au/site/page.cfm?c=767&mode=singleImage

      * 1870s, cant go much further back than that unless you want witchety grubs and possum on the menu again, which id not have any arguments about either

    • @silverbeet says:

      01:20pm | 27/01/10

      The Prairie is a great place, most definitely. And of course we should be eating ferals. Think: we don’t need a national dish because we are the Australian nation, we need to eat what is appropriate given that we live in the land called Australia. Ferals and kangaroo (when overpopulated) are sensible choices. Just help deliver the stuff (killed, butchered and transported hygienically and humanely), get the shops to stock it, and tell us how to prepare it (direct substitutions of game for beef and lamb in recipes can be disastrous).

    • @patinoz says:

      04:07pm | 27/01/10

      Every night, somewhere in Australia, it’s “Chicken Parma” night the local pub. That’s my nomination.

    • Michael Shafran says:

      09:00pm | 27/01/10

      Isn’t Up-The-Duff Chook just another name for Beer-Can Chicken? Sounds like the same iconic dish they’ve been cooking in the southern US for yonks. I’m all for chicken parma (I even suggested it as a national dish yesterday, along with spag bol), although I have a sneaking suspicion that it’s available at all the local pubs… in Melbourne. Maybe it should be Northern Chinese “combination” noodles with pork mince - no we don’t all eat it, but it’s essentially an Asian version of our favourite national dish, spag bol. Asian meets European: now how Aussie is that?

    • ChefAus says:

      12:42pm | 21/07/10

      The meat pie would definitely be our national ‘snack’. 
      The Sunday Roast is definitely a tradition and part of our culinary culture as are fish and chips.
      Our national dish would have the to be the Aussie BBQ.  Sausages, lamb, beef and seafood, prawns etc, almost every single household has a BBQ
      In fact, we have the third or fourth highest per capita consumption of beef in the world.

      There are several Australian dishes….

      Mixed Grill- Beef steak, lamb chops, sausages, bacon, tomato and offal
      Oysters Kilpatrick
      Prawn Cocktail
      Carpetbag Steak
      Apricot Chicken
      Kangaroo Tail Soup
      Kangaroo and Beetroot puree or relish

      etc etc etc

      Then of course you have Mod Oz Cusine which is the use of local produce wth contemporary techniques and then you have the emerging use of native Australian ingredients.

      Salt & Pepper Squid replacing Fish and Chips…....considering there is a fish chip shop or several in practically every suburb of this country and how popular they are,  I cant see where the basis of such a claim lies. What a strange comment to make.

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