Today marks the centenary of the launch of the competition to design the national capital city of Australia.

All this and a flower festival too! Photo: Ray Strange

On May 24, 1911, Minister for Home Affairs King O’Malley announced an international competition for the design. In 1899, the Colonial Premiers had decided that the permanent capital would be in New South Wales, not less than 100 miles from Sydney, and a Congress was held in Melbourne four months after Federation in 1901 on the planning of a capital.

Dalgety was first chosen as the site of the future capital in 1904, but four years later the Canberra Yass region was selected as a replacement. The site for the Australian Capital Territory was transferred to the Commonwealth of Australia in January 1911.

Half a world away in Chicago, two architects whose names subsequently would come to be associated with Australia for ever,had married. Walter Burley Griffin qualified as an architect in 1901, subsequently working with Frank Lloyd Wright and conducting the practice when Wright went to Japan, before starting his own practice.

Marion Lucy Mahony, a graduate of the Massachusetts Institute of Technology, had also been employed in Wright’s office. They were major proponents of the “prairie” school of architecture: “I am what may be termed a naturalist in architecture.. .. I believe in architecture that is the logical outgrowth of the environment in which the building in mind is to be located,“ she said.
It was while the Griffins were on their honeymoon that they learnt of the competition.

According to a report in the New York Times (June 2, 1912) after the announcement that Griffin had won the competition and the $8,750 prize:

Mr Griffin spent two months in work upon his plans, and finally submitted thirteen drawings, five feet by thirty inches in diameter. These included a lay-out of the central district of the city, a general plan of the city and its environs, long sections through the city in two-directions, and a prospective bird’s eye view of the city from Mount Ainslie.

Marion Mahony’s impressive drawings and renderings of the plan no doubt helped the judges to select the Americans from the 137 entries in the competition, despite neither having ever visited Australia. Speaking after the announcement in 1912, Griffin said:

I have planned a city not like any other city in the world. I have planned it not in a way that I expected any governmental authorities in the world would accept. I have planned an ideal city – a city that meets my ideal of the city of the future.

With unknowing prescience Griffin added: “I do not know to what extent my plan will be carried out. The Australian authorities may merely adopt my ground plan and fill in the architectural details to suit themselves. However, if my plan is carried out in all its details, I think the Australian capital will be the most beautiful city in history.”

“I do not know whether I shall be called to Australia to superintend the construction of the new city,” he added. “I hope so.”

History records that the Griffins did come to Canberra to supervise the plan, but they had a rocky relationship with bureaucrats, eventually resulting in Walter being removed as director of construction by the Hughes government in 1921. He subsequently left Australian for India in 1935, having designed the towns of Leeton and Griffiths, and residential developments at Castlecrag in Sydney and at Eaglemont in Melbourne; as well as a series of notable buildings including Melbourne’s Capital Theatre and Newman College at the University of Melbourne.

The main features of Griffin’s plans for the national capital can be observed in Canberra today, especially the triangle, the lake formed from damming the Molongo River, and the location of the Parliament, Civic, the University and the Military. But, as Professor David Dolan observes, the Griffin “vision is grossly diluted and adulterated” and was “ruthlessly compromised.” Indeed the only fully completed structure that Griffin designed is the grave of the WW1 general, Sir William Bridges, at the Royal Military College, Duntroon!

Debates about the Griffin legacy are for other occasions, as are discussions about the future development and place of Canberra in the national polity.

It is appropriate that the Australian Parliament recognises and celebrates the centenary of the city that was designed as its home, and which in the decades since has become a thriving, modern symbol of Australia, a location for government, culture and commerce, and the home for hundreds of thousands of our citizens.

52 comments

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    • Erick says:

      05:47am | 24/05/11

      I’ve experienced Canberra as a sterile and alienating place, though occasionally pleasant. Nevertheless there is a sense of distance from the rest of the Australian people - particularly inside the vast new Parliament House with its hundreds of metres of near-empty corridors separating everyone.

      As a bit of trivia, in the early 90s many of the floors of the building were made of beautiful polished hardwood. Unfortunately at that time stiletto heels were in fashion, so every wooden space had wide pockmarked gouges marking the paths where people walked. I wonder if they ever fixed that?

    • Mensur Cehic says:

      03:30pm | 24/05/11

      I will actually agree with Erick here. Very well described.

      If I may add, not only is it at a “distance from the rest of the Australian people”, it also DOES NOT represent nor reflect the overall demographic mix of Multicultural Australia - bar a poster boy here or there. wink

      Long story short, it should definitely not be the capital city nor should it have the bulk of the most important buildings and organizations. The fact that Canberra exists in its current functionality is an indicator that Australia is unnaturally being >pushed< in a direction that favors those who originate from lands represented by that little union jack in the top left corner of our flag. I say bring our Defence and Security associated infrastructure out of Canberra and distribute most of them into Melbourne and/or Sydney.

    • Lucy says:

      04:08pm | 24/05/11

      I also agree with Erick.

      “a thriving, modern symbol of Australia, a location for government, culture and commerce”, why do I think the writer of this hasnt actually spent much time in this place.

      Thriving? Only if you cant the growing public service which is forcing house prices rediculously high. How on earth can a city of 300,000 have prices on par with Sydney?!

      Modern? Well I guess since, with teh exception of a couple of historic homesteads that were here first, the oldest building in this place hasnt reached a centuy yet it qualifies as modern.

      Culture? Its a wierd place which has a huge number of choirs and classical music lovers and fans of every football code who regularly all attend events…is that culture? The rest is horded treasures dragged her to be exhibited at “national” buildings so does imported culture count?

      Economics? We dont produce much of anything (in more ways than one) but I guess we do provide funds for teh rest of the nation so we help teh economy…

      Canberra is a hole, sometimes a black on sometimes just a hole full of public servants drowning in paperwork which they created.

    • Mensur Cehic says:

      04:25pm | 24/05/11

      “Canberra is a hole, sometimes a black on sometimes just a hole full of public servants drowning in paperwork which they created. “

      Lucy, you rock!! smile

    • marley says:

      07:08pm | 24/05/11

      Well, I too lived in Canberra for a while, and it’s not the first artificial capital I’ve lived in (if you don’t like Canberra, you’ll really hate Islamabad).  But, like a non-artificial city I’ve also lived in - Ottawa - it’s the capital because no one wanted to go through the Melbourne vs Sydney fight any more than they wanted to go through the Montreal vs Toronto fight.  So, a capital which isn’t in sway to the big end of town in either city.  Works for me.

      Canberra isn’t the most exciting place, but it’s a very comfortable place to live.  Traffic jams, forget it.  Hours in transit to get to work, nah.  Used to take me five minutes, seven if I timed it wrong.  Shopping’s okay, restaurants ditto, hospitals good, museums and galleries very good, bicycle paths also good.  And great bird life swooping into the garden, because it’s a very “green” (okay, khaki) city.

      I enjoyed my time there - but then, I’ve lived in a lot of really big cities, and it was a nice relief to get to a small one with a human scale.

    • Just Sayin' says:

      01:07pm | 25/05/11

      “But, like a non-artificial city I’ve also lived in - Ottawa - it’s the capital because no one wanted to go through the Melbourne vs Sydney fight any more than they wanted to go through the Montreal vs Toronto fight.”

      No, it’s the capital because architects of our constitution wanted to ensure that the government of the state where the capital was located, of all the states in our federation, could not exert an undue influence.  Accordingly, our capital MUST be in it’s own territory and it MUST be at least 100K from any state capital.  Not because people wanted to avoid the rivallry between Sydney and Melbourne.

    • Canberrasok says:

      07:50am | 24/05/11

      It’s so easy to bag out Canberra - but I like it. I have had a blast here! It does depend on your social network - sometimes Canberra is a hard place to meet new people. It can also have an underside that people try to ignore and sweep away - but every city has that. Overall it’s not as bad as non-Canberrans like to say it is.

    • ibast says:

      09:02am | 24/05/11

      If you are into food and wine Canberra is a great place.  Parliament (and all the hanger-ons) ensures there are good restaurants and when parliament is not in session you can always get a table.  The climate ensures good wines and the smaller nature of the cellar doors makes them much more friendly than places like the Hunter or the Yarra.

    • acotrel says:

      08:11am | 24/05/11

      The only thing wrong with Canberra is the bastard that works there and thinks he knows something about Australian workplaces! Try it again Kevvy ! It stopped the LNP being elected in 2007 !

    • Tim says:

      01:54pm | 24/05/11

      If a fanatic is someone who can’t change his mind, and won’t change the subject, you sure qualify acotrel!

    • acotrel says:

      03:25am | 25/05/11

      Why should we overlook the cynicism of the LNP?

    • TChong says:

      08:11am | 24/05/11

      I reckon canbrar isnt too bad.
      The AWM, Questacon for the kiidies, National Film + Sound archives,  and me favorite, the ANG - the australian colonial galleries, and its pretty amazing indian art collection, worth the long trip.

    • SimpleSimon says:

      08:35am | 24/05/11

      I like Canberra. I like the pleasent mixture of urban and suburban lifestyles without the dense population of the major cities. Having lived here my whole life, but experienced other places, I can absolutely understand people not liking it here, but for me it’s a relaxed city[1] with plenty of work[2], some beautiful landscapes and a legitimate family-friendly atmosphere. I just often wish there was more to do!

      [1] the term “city” is used loosely
      [2] work opportunities are largely confined to public service or retail

    • ibast says:

      08:37am | 24/05/11

      The reason Canberra never became the metropolis it was supposed to is the town planners copped out and allowed the urban sprawl that other capital cities suffer with.  Had they maintained the original urban limits Civic would now be a thriving cosmopolitan place with a great deal of character.

    • marley says:

      07:13pm | 24/05/11

      I thought Canberra was specifically designed to be a group of small villages, built around little shopping areas - it was never supposed to be a metropolis.

    • Shane From Melbourne says:

      09:41am | 24/05/11

      If Canberra disappeared from the face of the earth (preferably with all politicians and bureaucrats included) no one would miss it. Canberra is the ultimate quarantine station designed to hold that infectious disease called Federal Government.

    • ibast says:

      12:25pm | 24/05/11

      Why is it that Melbournians are so paranoid about their own city that they feel the need to slag off every other city in Australia?

    • Shane From Melbourne says:

      01:12pm | 24/05/11

      Slagging off about Federal Government, hold no brief about the city one way or the other…...

    • Richard M says:

      09:56am | 24/05/11

      The fact is that the Griffins designed a city of 30,000.  Canberra now has population 350,000, so to expect that the city would have stayed absolutely true to the Griffin legacy is unrealistic.  As a Canberra resident for over 30 years, obviously I love it because it is home.  It is a great place to live because it has a beautiful natural environment, and yet has many of the good things about a city - good restaurants etc.  I thoroughly enjoy my frequent visits to Sydney, but am always glad to leave the mad rush, congestion and pollution behind to come home.  However, I’m not entirely blind to Canberra’s drawbacks in terms of a place to visit.  I can see how it might seem to be a rather sterile place of great but empty vistas, especially if you arrive on a Sunday!  The problem is there’s lots going on, but they are not obvious.  However, visits to the great national institutions, especially the War Memorial, should make up for that.

    • Tony of Poorakistan says:

      10:06am | 24/05/11

      I’ve lived there a few times and that means I see the changes that have occured. There were some excellent (and a few chronically bad) ideas carried out by the then National Capital Development Commission (NCDC), but the greatest failure in Canberra, as in many of our cities, is the lack of a mass transit system or any planning for one. Hundreds of smelly, lumbering, road-blocking buses are not the answer. 
       
      And closing down the few old pubs was a mistake. The clubs are just pokie palaces and have sod all atmosphere. My favourite was a place called the Boot and Flogger at Kingston, where you could sit and eat a superb brunch from early Sunday morning, into the afternoon, accompanied by large amounts of champagne, then beer, then rum. Other places that spring to mind would be the Contented Soul, Pot Black, Blind Beggars’ Inn, Shamrock Rose & Thistle ....

    • James1 says:

      11:07am | 24/05/11

      The Phoenix is still like it always was.  Pours the best Guiness in town too.

      I like Canberra, mainly because if you are gainfully employed it is a great place to raise children.  Its not a city though.  It is just three large towns clumped together.

    • Markus says:

      11:48am | 24/05/11

      I was sad when Filthy McFadden’s went under. I used to work late nights right next door, so it was a great place to grab a drink right after my shift.

      “The Phoenix is still like it always was” that’s the problem. If they fix the leaky roof I might consider visiting regularly again raspberry

      The Wig and Pen is my favourite, especially when their seasonal 12% stout comes around in June-July each year.

    • SimpleSimon says:

      12:34pm | 24/05/11

      Canberra’s bus system it a case study internationally on how NOT to run a bus network! The problem with any sort of mass transport system in Canberra (busses, trains, trams etc) is that the population is spread thin and spread wide. There are great areas between town centres with absolutely nothing in them (the farmers living there might disagree…), the majority of work is conducted in the centre/north but traffic flows in every direction, and the population isn’t at a level to sustain the costs of a decent system, which makes train or tram systems imptractical.

      I like the Pot Belly. Wish I could get there more often. And i agree, the Wig and Pen and the Phoenix are both great little pubs, too.

    • Vaunted says:

      11:16am | 24/05/11

      It’s interesting to note how many regular contributors to Punch are represented in these comments. Get back to your work you lazy bee’s, what do you think we pay you for?

    • Richard M says:

      12:17pm | 24/05/11

      Rack off!  I’m retired, you rude, ignorant idiot.
      What are you doing?

    • Claire says:

      01:07pm | 24/05/11

      Yeah, and I’m on my lunch break. Just because our salaries are paid for by taxes (which we contribute to as well, by the way), doesn’t mean we have to take your crap.

    • Shannon says:

      11:51am | 24/05/11

      I love living in Canberra, I’ve been to Sydney and Melbourne, And always love coming home (For the resord, loved working in Melbourne more then Sydney)

      Canberra is safe, beautiful, clean and fun! I want to raise my children here, i want to die here.

      it is very much make your own fun here, But I have never spend a weekend bored.

      Love it!

    • Tony of Poorakistan says:

      01:08pm | 24/05/11

      On any rainy Sunday, you might as well be dead as in Canberra wink 
       
      A bit of trivia - the town of Jabiru in the NT was copied from two standard Canberra suburbs. No idea why.

    • PatC says:

      12:37pm | 24/05/11

      Canberra - A place where funny old people try to rule the country from the naughty corner.

    • Joel B1 says:

      01:02pm | 24/05/11

      Local group The Bad Luck Charms wrote a song about a run-down, lower-class suburb in Hobart called Chigwell.

      I think some of the lyrics in “Chigwell is Burning” being “there’s fog in the winter and smoke in the summer” might have just as well been written about Canberra.

    • Richard M says:

      01:35pm | 24/05/11

      Oh dear. We seem to have settled into the usual boring and repetitive Canberra-bashing by people whose arrogance is only surpassed by their ignorance.  I guess it was inevitable, especially on this site.

    • Andy says:

      01:53pm | 24/05/11

      The best thing about Canberra is that the rest of the country is too busy bagging it to notice what a great city it is.

      I have lived in Sydney, Melbourne, Canberra, Newcastle, a few different country towns, a few beach towns and an unfortunate 6 months in Dubbo and the place I miss most is Canberra.

      But let’s be clear though, if you live anywhere south of Hindmarsh Drive or anywhere west of Dryandra St you are missing out on the best Canberra has to offer.

    • James1 says:

      02:53pm | 24/05/11

      You mean there is something west of Dryandra St?  Who would have known… 

      The only time I ventured south of Hindmarsh Drive, a gang of teenagers stole my shoes.  True story.

    • Louis says:

      03:33pm | 24/05/11

      Hey James1 surely that was in Rivett? Cause us Woden people are much better than that…........... Unless you headed to the Hyperdome.

    • tina says:

      03:44pm | 24/05/11

      Rivetto The Ghetto, i live here, and yes, it’s ghetto, but love it still.

      Tuggies Thuggies are horrid though!

    • Dan says:

      01:56pm | 24/05/11

      Still reeling from the fact that Kevin has written something readable, I’ve just realised that the Canberra-bashing seems to have abated somewhat. As a one-time resident of Canbera (who will return in due course), my attitude to Canberra bashers has always been ‘keep it up, we Canberrans would like to keep the place to ourselves anyway’.

      Most criticism of the city tends to come from those who have never lived there and when they visit, never get past Northbourne Avenue and Parliament House. Bit like judging Sydney by hanging around Parramatta Road.

    • Pete says:

      01:58pm | 24/05/11

      I love living in canberra, reading the comments here I note there are vast empty regions with nothing in them between the town centres,  we only have one instance of something resembling that description. Novel turn of phrase for parliament house. We should be charging you people childcare fees for all the pollies you export to us.

    • Greg says:

      02:05pm | 24/05/11

      I recently returned to Canberra after 5 years away living in Adelaide. And was reminded again how amazing Canberra is!
      I wonder though, if it’s a victim of it’s own success? In Canberra, you have 400,000 people living in a space that’s as big physically as Adelaide. Adelaide has a population of 1.4 million. When you add in the fact that Canberra has been designed to be more open than Adelaide, it’s easy to see why Canberra could feel quiet and empty. There just isn’t as many people per sq meter! I don’t know if that’s 100% accurate, but those were certainly my impressions. God damn it’s a beautiful city though, driving along Parkes Way and seeing the beautiful vista of Lake Burley Griffen and Black Mountain open in front of you is unmatched in any city in this country.

    • NSW says:

      02:33pm | 24/05/11

      Canberra - where good times go to die.

      A cultureless, souless waste of a good sheeps paddock. The people are arrogant but supremely ignorant, there’s nothing to do, its home to the biggest joke of a buliding in the country - parliament house and it has the worst drivers in the southern hemisphere…oh god…what a hole.

    • Richard M says:

      03:44pm | 24/05/11

      Good - don’t come here.  The average IQ of both NSW and Canberra will benefit.

    • Tony of Poorakistan says:

      03:12pm | 24/05/11

      ‘‘worst drivers’’ ? 
       
      that’s only because there are so many Victorians working there. 
       
      Same on the Gold Coast these days. Used to be you could assume a driver would be as polite as you ... nowadays they change lanes all over the place, squeezing in front of you even tho’ that reduces your safety margin etc and it is all retired or holidaying Victorians, none of whom should be allowed out of their home state without having a road courtesy examination.

    • Louis says:

      03:39pm | 24/05/11

      Oh come on, its not that bad. So much hatred from people who haven’t lived here. Restaurant scene is brilliant for a smallish city, with just about everything (Dickson, Kingston, Manuka and Civic are gold, plus some gems in the Woden area like Indian Affair in Philip).

      In regards to some of the above posters, Wig and Pen is indeed quite good, but I’ll disagree on the Phoenix. No offence to it, but not my scene. Then again I like the Durham, Eastlake, O’Malley’s, and when I really feel filthy then Moose. Don’t judge me!

    • James1 says:

      06:57pm | 24/05/11

      I’m sorry, but Mooseheads?  Consider yourself judged…

    • thequeenofcastile says:

      05:47pm | 24/05/11

      Having lived in Canberra for close to three years, I could not wait to get out and I would never go back. Canberra is a very sorry excuse for a state and national capital. Personally, I liked the quietness and the closeness in which everything was. What I hated was the weather; normally temperatures of 36 and -8 wouldn’t be such a problem.

      The problem is those temps peaking at 4pm, so it is the hottest time of the day is just before most people finish work. The heat stays around until very late at night, making sleep close to impossible. In Winter, the temp peaks at the same time, but only sticks around for about 30mins and promptly plunges along with the sun behind the Brindabellas.

      Other problems include bad roads, the majority of the APS and the stuckup self entitled attitude of anyone who has a half decent title, puffing themselves to feel important. I couldn’t wait to get out of there and now that I have escaped, I shall never return.

    • marley says:

      07:11pm | 24/05/11

      Well, my girl, if you think Canberra has a poor climate with a range of 36 to - 8, you haven’t lived.  Try a climate with a range of +32 to
      - 35 and then we’ll talk,

    • bikinis on top says:

      08:51pm | 24/05/11

      At least Canberra was closer to Sydney than melbourne.
      Canberra has an NRL Team but no AFL team.

    • bella starkey says:

      08:55pm | 24/05/11

      Have to go to Canberra next month, taking long johns.

      worst. climate. ever.

    • Goldenfaber says:

      09:59pm | 24/05/11

      I spent three days and nights in Canberra a couple of months ago and some impressions i had:
      1.I was suprised how alive the city centre was with bars and restaurants - it just had nothing for smokers. Pretty good for so early in the week.
      2. The war memorial was sensational - i thought their art was better than the National Gallery! Even WW1 came alive to me for the first time ever.
      3. Heaps of lovely park type areas.
      4. Suprised at the traffic in the middle at peak times.
      5. lost ever day as expected in central Canberra.
      6. The casino is great. They have statues of politicians around the place including one of Bob Hawke holding up the bar.lol
      7. Walked around the embassy area which is alright and the feds grilled me for photographing the American embassy!!!
      8. Overall definitely worth the three days and a lovely drive from Sydney.

    • HSV says:

      06:38pm | 25/05/11

      Canberra is not a nice place to live or raise a family. The rest of Australia thinks Canberrans are stupid, greedy and bad drivers, and I have to agree. Living in Canberra for 35yrs allows you to see it for what it was and now is. Cant wait to sell all our properties for a profit to the dumbass Canberrans then were off. Drug dealers in every street, homelessness out of control, gay marriage on the tables.  Good luck to Canberra, already too far gone, the liberals will finish it off for you after next federal election.

    • John says:

      03:31pm | 14/03/12

      Firstly, all of you who want Canberra to drop off the map and take the politicians with them - WE PITCH THE TENT, YOU SEND THE CLOWNS! Would you prefer them knocking on your door day and night?

      I was born in Canberra and am not a public servant, nor is my mother, wife or brothers.  It is a great place to bring up kids and many of my friends who came from other places say the same thing, although once the kids have grown up, they head for warmer climbes as being a retiree in Canberra apparently isn’t so hot. 

      We are 1 1/2 hours from the beach and ocean fishing, like Penrith, same from the snow and lake fishing, we have wonderful national institutions, parks and recreation areas. 

      I travel around Canberra for my work and am amazed at how anyone in Sydney or Melbourne get anything done with the lousy roads and bumper to bumper traffic almost all day and tolls everywhere.  Anyone who has to commute more than 15kms each way spends hours in their cars.  Do the maths people, 2 hours a day in your car is equal to an entire years recreation leave in your car and I don’t remember any shootings, certainly not into double figures and so publicly like Sydney or that mate of Alan Didak’s in Melbourne a few years ago.

      It is a clean, healthy place to live, sure it has seasons, winter can be really cold and summer can have stinkers but shops do sell warm clothes as well as t shirts and shorts swimmers and our homes are blessed with things called insulation and heating and cooling systems.

      As for public servants, there are federal, state and council workers everywhere, sure its a bit of a drag living in the safest Labor seats in the country, but you can’t have everything.

      I went to a Swans game in Sydney last year, stayed in the centre of Sydney and could not find a decent cafe open at 10:30pm.  Had to settle for a dodgy kebab.  If you haven’t looked lately, Sydney isnt a city that never sleeps either.  Canberra has some very nice restaraunts, decent bars and decent club life if that’s your thing. 

      If being a grandparent is great because you can spoil the kids then give them back, Canberra is great beacuse you can hop on a 50 minute flight to Melbourne or drive for 3 hours to Sydney stay a couple of days and then (thank God) leave!

    • Rose says:

      11:15am | 21/04/12

      Yeah, there’s a plethora of moronic sour grapes coming our way from those in Sydney and Melbourne – two big, dirty cities with limited attractions that are spread so far out it takes half a lifetime to get to them.
      People in Canberra have the highest average IQ, highest number of cafes and restaurants per capita and highest just about everything else in the nation.
      If all the losers stay away, then it makes it an even better place to be.

 

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