Kokoda has claimed more Australian lives this year than Afghanistan.

The more trekkers who descend on Kokoda, the more casualties

During the last week two trekkers died on the Kokoda Trail, a couple more were evacuated by helicopter and fourteen went down with food poisoning.  Yesterday a campsite that took years to build at Ofi Creek was burned to the ground over an argument between two landowners.

Land disputes now block the wartime trail over the ‘golden staircase’ and Iorabaiwa Ridge – the closest the Japanese army got to Port Moresby in 1942.

The Kokoda Trail, which held so much potential as a model for sustainable eco-tourism in Papua New Guinea is beginning to choke on its own success.

For 50 years after the end of the war in the Pacific the track lay dormant and reverted to its original purpose of providing a link between villages.  Battlesites were slowly reclaimed by the jungle and new tracks were cut as easier pathways were discovered.  The bodies of diggers missing in action were covered in layers of leaves and mulch by Mother Nature. Their rifles, grenades and bayonets were left to rust in peace.

Former Prime Minister, Paul Keating jolted our consciousness of the Kokoda campaign when he kissed the ground on the Kokoda plateau on the 50th anniversary of the Kokoda campaign.  Inquisitive Australian trekkers began to prise open the jungle shielding the forgotten battlefields in search of the meaning of Kokoda.

Up till then Gallipoli was our most significant meeting place.

But Kokoda is different.  According to one commentator, ‘at Gallipoli we fought for Britain and lost - at Kokoda we fought for Australia and won!’

The Federal Government has been slow to embrace the significance of military history to a generation that has been denied information by the custodians of education curricula from the academic left.  Fortunately these ideological censors have since been circumvented by the information revolution.  Young and old Australians can now do their own research in their quest to know more about our military history.

Kokoda is an important bridge in the knowledge gap between what we don’t know and what we should have been taught.  It is also one of the few opportunities where people can walk in the footsteps of the brave and experience the conditions under which our veterans fought and died.

The recent deaths and the number of evacuations are testimony to the hazardous nature of the trek across the remote, jungle clad mountains of the Owen Stanley Ranges.  Empty weapon pits surrounding overgrown defensive positions are haunting reminders of the epic struggle for survival between young men in the prime of their lives.  A shrill chorus from unseen ‘6 o’clock crickets’ pierces the stillness of the jungle each night.  It is almost as if they are sounding their ‘last post’ as a tribute to the memory of young Australian, Japanese and New Guinea men sent to do the bidding of their political masters.

A recent proposal to mine part of the track in the vicinity of the Maguli Range created a storm of protest.  The Federal Government was prompted into action and immediately plucked a figure of $15.9 million out of the air to assist Papua New Guinea to have the Owen Stanley Ranges placed on the World Heritage List.  A noble but misguided over-reaction in a land of a thousand cultures with customary land ownership.

Since then a veritable army of ‘experts’ have consumed most of the budget allocation through conferences, committees and consultants.  Pioneering trekking companies have been treated with some disdain because they are regarded as profiteers with conflicts of interest.  Never mind the relationships and trust many have established with villagers over almost two decades.

They seem oblivious to the fact that villagers along the track are earning more money than ever before through campsite fees, donations and wages.  They are blissfully unaware of the environmental and cultural damage they are causing by focusing on ‘feel-good’ projects along the track.

A partnership with the PNG Department of Community development to trial their Community Learning Development Centre concept has considerable merit but has been ignored to date. The concept involves the development of trust between clans, investment in community health and education, and the exploration of ways to add value to partnerships.  A PNG concept for PNG citizens might not sit well with our bureaucrats in the Department of Environment but it should be give a shot and the Minister, Dame Carol Kidu, should at least be consulted.

The Kokoda Trail is now a honey-pot attracting clans from distance villagers trying to cash in on the trekking industry.  Pristine jungle is being cleared for campsites, toilets are being sited on waterways and disputes are becoming the order of the day.

We need to rethink our strategy and focus on the development of the abundance of human capital in PNG.  They are masters of their environment and would be willing partners in the protection of our military heritage in the lost battlefields of the Pacific War.

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    • Chambo says:

      09:07am | 08/10/09

      Having trekked Kokoda with Charlie, his views on this matter should be taken very seriously. He has a passionate interest in the people of PNG, their communities and the preservation of the Trail, and also of making sure that trekkers are best prepared for one of the hardest things they will ever do in their lives.

    • Daniel says:

      09:54am | 08/10/09

      If “trekking companies have been treated with some disdain because they are regarded as profiteers with conflicts of interest” there is a huge problem with those selected to act as consultants on this important track.
      So many of hte trekking companies rely on the ongoing good will of the local people, and the relative pristine nature of the enviornment to make the trek what it is. Whether it’s leadership training or battle site visits, changing what has made the destination so popular is not in the trekking companies interest. They should be used for thier knowledge of what has worked, and what hasn’t.

    • Glenn says:

      01:21pm | 08/10/09

      As the trekking numbers increase there is a fair chance that we will see others die walking the trail. Like most things in life you can reduce the risk of becoming a statistic, by knowing what your limitations are and ensuring you prepare both your body and equipment to undertake such an arduous trek.  Having walked the Kokoda Trail and seeing the beauty that it has to offer, I also know first hand that it can be very unkind to those that do not make the necessary preparations. 
      I have recently read that there are steps being cut into the side of hills and bridges built across rivers, at various sections of the trail.  Perhaps this will make it marginally easier for the trekker to negotiate, but in the end what an eye sore.  There needs to be people who are as passionate about the Kokokda Trail, involved in the decision making on how best to manage it, along with people who can apply commonsense and listen to those that have walked the trail.  Only then will the Kokoda Trail be in good hands, for future generations of Australians to enjoy.

    • RGG says:

      01:21pm | 08/10/09

      “to a generation that has been denied information by the custodians of education curricula from the academic left.  Fortunately these ideological censors have since been circumvented by the information revolution.”

      Good article, but stuff like what I just quoted does nothing but cheapen your argument. You should probably avoid it in future for wider appeal.

    • David says:

      01:57pm | 08/10/09

      Charlie’s comments should also be taken with a pinch of salt because he is one of the foreigners profiteering from the Track, when so much more could be done to help locals become involved in, and benefit from, the growing Australian interest in the Track.

      I don’t dispute Charlie’s deep knowledge of, and interest in, the Track.  However, having trekked with a company run and staffed by PNG locals, who were raised on, or still live on, the Track, I know I’d prefer that experience.

      Also, I’ve been made incredibly angry by some of Charlie’s recent comments about deaths on the Track.  His hypcrisy has been quite startling. 

      When an Australian woman died earlier in the year, Charlie said the death was entirely preventable and attacked “dodgy” operators, thereby implying that the woman’s death was caused by a “dodgy” operator.  This was incredibly cycnical and unfair, given the cause of death was not known.

      Now that an Australian, very sadly, has died trekking with Charlie’s company, he’s blamed the poor vicitm for being too unfit and absolved his own company of any responsibility.  If the victim was so clearly unfit, why was he allowed to commence trekking?

      Charlie’s a very successful self-publicist, who presents only one point of view about the Track.  His views should be listened to, but balanced against other opinions, particularly those of local PNG people and operators.

    • David says:

      05:22pm | 08/10/09

      I should clarify something.

      My statement that Charlie Lynn is one of those “profiteering” from the Track is based on the assumption that Charlie benefits personally from the operations of Adventure Kokoda, or otherwise.

      Charlie might be able to clarify the extent of this personal pecuniary interest in the Track.  This would put his comments in context, particularly if he has no such interest.

    • Charlie Lynn says:

      06:13pm | 08/10/09

      David,
      I’m more than happy to do that.  I have never drawn a salary from Adventure Kokoda but the company does cover my trekking expenses and my travels to PNG.
      We currently sponsor two students at Port Moresby Grammar School and I am flying up for their graduation next month - then bringing them back to Sydney for two weeks.  Next year we will be extending the scholarship to include their respective fees at TAFE and UPNG.  We have other students benefiting from our Kokoda Bursary Program.
      Over the past 18 months we have put more than 2000 new books into the library at POM Grammar.  We provide financial support to the Friends Foundation and the Buk Biong Pikinini program in Port Moresby.  We also have own ‘Yumi Helpim Pikinini’ program where each of our treks delivers school supplies to village schools along the trail.  In addition to this our trek groups donate around $50,000 worth of medical supplies to the Kokoda Hospital and the Sogeri Medical Centre each year.
      We have just donated $2,500 to the Kokoda Sports Development Program in response to a request from the PNG Kokoda Track Authority.
      None of this would be possible if I was to be paid from the company.
      I should add that our company operated in the red for the first decade because of the lack of public interest during that time.  We have never received one cent or one toea from any government body - it was the cost we had to pay for pioneering the trail with the view to having it developed and preserved as a National Memorial Trail - I wrote my first paper on this issue 15 years ago - well before it was on the public radar.
      Re your comments on the woman who died in April - I understand the company she trekked with did not have a sat phone, or a radio, or a medical kit,. or anybody trained in remote area 1st aid, or a reliable rear-link contact in Port Moresby - if that’s not dodgy then I’ll search for a new word!
      Phillip Brunskill, who died on our trek last Sunday had completed a medical self-assessment and received a medical clearance which included a mandatory stress test.  Despite this our trek leader observed that he was not physically capable of continuing after the first hour - which was downhill.  It was the correct call to make.  The only conclusion I can draw from this is that he either had a medical condition that was not detected during his medical examination or he did not do sufficient training in preparation for the trek.
      We are proud of the fact that we have led more than 4000 Australians safely across the track over the past 18 years.
      If writing numerous articles on the proper preservation of the Kokoda Trail, developing models for other places with military significance and arguing for access to seasonal work opportunities for PNG people is ‘self-promotion’ as you suggest then I’ll just have to accept the label.
      I am prepared to publish any other papers written by other ‘commentators’ and also publicise any other initiatives along the Kokoda Trail which involve them putting their hands in the own pocket.

    • David says:

      07:38pm | 08/10/09

      Charlie, thanks for your reply.

      I think we’ll have to agree to disagree on some points.  In particular, I think your understanding of the circumstances of the death earlier this year is flawed.

      I’ve trekked with the company involved and know that they carry a satellite phone (eg, which I used to call my family one evening from Jap’s Ladder) and employ porters and group leaders with relevant first aid certificates (eg, our personal porter certainly had a first aid certificate).  I also know that the company has an extraordinary safety record (eg, none of their trekkers have ever required a medivac evacuation).

      Apart from that, I still think it’s wrong to make statements about that particular death being preventable when the full circumstances, including the cause of death, are unknown.  Eg, if the individual involved had a pre-existing medical condition, its quite possible that no amount of training or precautions would’ve prevented the death.

      I certainly wish you, and anyone involved in trying to make the Kokoda Track a safer place, while at the same time promoting local development and capability building, the best in those endeavours.

    • PETE says:

      09:24am | 12/10/09

      Good on you David for the clear perspective you put on the recent comments made after the death of Phillip Brunskill who was trekking with Adventure Kokoda. I also found the comments by Charlie Lynn to be hypocritical and reeking of double standards. In the past he has shown he is quick off the mark to gain publicity when other trek operators are subject to any misfortune. However with the recent death and also the evacuation of trekkers walking with his company, the rules of engagement suddenly changed. Comments attributed to him featured in a recent article by Jill Singer in the Herald Sun. True to form , he emailed ex trekkers who had been involved with or walked with his company and invited their response and support. Well organised publicity with people jumping to his defence followed. Charlie Lynn is good at dishing it out, but just like “Murphy’s Dog” , he is not so good at taking it. He needs to be able to accept constructive criticism and not see himself as the sole font of knowledge and righteousness on all matters Kokoda. I think it is disgraceful when any person tries to gain an advantage either overt or subtle from anyone else’s misfortune. Congratulations on speaking out and raising issues.

    • Charlie says:

      06:47pm | 12/10/09

      Pete,

      If you can find any comment I made on the first three deaths on the Kokoda Trail please let me know.

      I have explained why I spoke out on Samantha Killen’s unfortunate death because I was the first one to get the call to help her.  I was told by the PNG guide that delivered a scrawled note to me that they did not have anybody trained in advanced or remote area First Aid, no effective communications, no adequate First Aid Kit and no effective rear link.  I refer to those sort of trekking companies, and there are many of them, as dodgy.  Another credible trek operator who has been leading groups across Kokoda for many years refers to them as ‘cowboy’ operators.

      There is a high probability that Samantha Killen would be alive today if she had been with one of the few credible trekking companies who invest in experienced trek leaders properly equipped to handle medical emergencies.  I will continue to speak out against such operators until the Kokoda Track Authority develops a proper accreditation system.

      I spoke out about Paul Bradfield’s unfortunate death after I learned that he was allowed to go on the trek without obtaining a medical clearance.  I have been a strong advocate for mandatory medical clearances for trekkers for many years and will continue to be until it is introduced. 

      Paul Bradfield may still be alive if he had to undergo a thorough medical examination before being allowed to go on the track.

      In regard to Mr Brunskill’s unfortunate death with our company I issued a statement of facts to AAP as soon as I had them confirmed.  I did not contact any other media outlet.

      The following day I responded to every media call in regard to Mr Brunskill’s death.  I believe it was most probably due to one of two factors.  He either had a medical condition that was not detected during his medical examination which included a mandatory stress test, or he had not prepared himself sufficiently for the physical demands of the trek.  When I first spoke with Mr Brunskill’s partner her first words were ‘There should be a law against allowing overweight people to go on the track’.  She also advised me that neither she nor their sons wanted him to go.  I did not mention this in my media interviews due to the sensitivity of the situation however, before any more carpers come out of the woodwork they should know that there seems to be clear evidence that Mr Brunskill was not physically fit enough for his trek.  In fact out trek leader made this assessment within the first hour and Mr Brunskill agreed with him.

      I ran the full copy of Jill Singer’s article on my blog with my rebuttal.  I then advised various media outlets, my former army mates and trekkers and invited them to respond if they wanted to.  They are a diverse lot – journalists, teachers, students, tradespeople, farmers, veterans, etc – the one quality they have in common is they are all capable of independent thought. You can view the range of their comments at http://blog.kokodatreks.com/2009/10/08/keep-track-of-kokoda-operators/

      I respect people who make constructive contributions to the debate on how best to preserve, protect and manage the Kokoda Trail but I do admit that I get a bit short with carpers who just lie in the grass and snipe.

    • Pete says:

      11:36pm | 14/10/09

      You really just do not get it, do you? My point is a simple one that even you should be able to understand. Sudden death can occur at any time. Every day people die at train stations, parks, pools, gyms. In Melbourne the rate is around 0.72/1000 people.
      Do you have any understanding of basic cardiology? Stress tests and other assessments may not capture arrhythmias or other syndromes. People can have all sorts of tests that come back NAD.They may then commence their trek and for all sorts of reasons ,collapse.If this happens and you arrest on kokoda, you will certainly die.
      There are no defribrillators,no medics to intubate and ventilate, no iv access to give adrenaline, atropine, sodium bicarbonate, no iv fluids let alone cold iv fluids , and no rapid transit to a crit care facility.CPR alone is about as useful as an ashtray on a motorbike . A remote area wilderness first aid certificate is next to useless in htese circumstances. I believe that thorough fitness and medical tests should be mandatory for all persons undertaking Kokoda, but still people are going to die, even those trekking with your company. Do not slag off at Executive Excellence or Our Spirit and then in the same breath after a death has happened on one of your treks, show your hypocrisy and double standards by referencing to the trekkers fitness state and in some way try to absolve yourself and your company from any adverse publicity. All trekking companies have strengths and weaknesses. Yours is no different and not you or any of your team is going to save everyones soul.Unlike your organised email driven publicity team of syncophants who delight in blowing smoke up your backside, I will call you for your double standards as has David and others on different blogs. I don’t know about carpers, grass and sniping but I dislike opinionated,know alls who are dismissive of others.

    • Charlie says:

      10:02pm | 16/10/09

      Pete,

      I’m impressed with your medical knowledge - much more detail than I was taught on my Remote Area First Aid Course.  You are either a great Google researcher, a para-medic or a doctor.

      Mate, I think it’s time you and David outed yourselves if you are going to continue to use this forum to vent your collective spleens. 

      Have either of you ever trekked across the Kokoda Trail?  If so, who did you trek with?  Do either of you have any ‘pecuniary interest’ in any other trekking company?

      Or are you just a pair of carpers?

      You might also like to provide some specifics (which media outlet and when)  in regard to your allegations about my criticism of Executive Excellence or Our Spirit. 

      Both these companies are run by blokes I have known for many years - John Miles and Aiden Grimes.  We often meet on the trail; we communicate regularly; we share knowledge; and will continue to work co-operatively to protect the military heritage of the Kokoda Trail and the quality of the experience for people who trek with us.

      So Pete - either put up or shut up - because you’re starting to sound like a whingeing Pom!

    • Jihad says:

      03:57pm | 17/10/09

      The Kokoda Trek is the most ardous things I have ever done.  I completed the ‘walk’ earlier this year and was joined by 18 other young leaders who learnt more about themesleves during that time than they could ever have picked up in any book or film.

      People will die on the trek.  The finger pointing and accusation is not going to change any of that.  We trekked with Adventure Kokoda and I could not speak highly enough of the experience. It was certainly the most difficult thing any of us had ever done or will ever do.

      Charlie has an incredible understanding of the historical and cultural significance of the track and his understanding and respect towards the locals was deeply insightful.  It’s a tragedy that people die.  It’s more tragic when their deaths are used to sling arrows…

    • Douglas Draeger says:

      08:00am | 19/10/09

      Yes, I trecked with Adventure Kokoda in April this year, and we passed and were overtaken by a variety of other trecking groups who were only too happy to inform us of their experiances with their chosen trecking companies and their regrets of discovering how better prepared and organised we were, more informed of the history, and the more places we had visited in our 10 day treck, and not the 6 - 7 day adventure sprint they were being pushed through - their disapointment of only then discovering they could have experianced so much more than the phisical challenge, was evident

    • Simon says:

      04:14pm | 19/10/09

      Peter

      You have revealed very little about yourself in your recent blog entries and just how many treks you may have done across the Owen Stanley’s. From what you write and the language used we do know however that you are are a very angry, ill informed man who has yet to understand that this behaviour fails to reflect the true spirit of Kokoda. Your approach is unhelpful to proper debate about the key issues and shows little respect for those soldiers and trekkers who have completed this journey.  With the medical knowledge you appear to espouse, you may just know the benefits of what a panadol, a cup of tea and a little lie down might achieve before you decide to embark on your ill informed tirades and accusations which would appear to be commercially driven !

    • David says:

      02:38pm | 27/10/09

      Charlie

      I’m very disappointed with your defensive attitude, but ultimately not suprised you have such a soft skin.

      My posts earlier this month (see below) were polite and constructive.  I even took care to correct an erroneous assumption about you in my first post before you’d even replied (ie, about whether you have a pecuniary interest).

      Accordingly, I’m not sure exactly what you have in mind when you say I must “out” myself.  I’m even more confused by your misguided statement that I’m somehow “venting my spleen” or “carping”.  Since when does making modest requests for balance and perspective - which is the key theme running through my posts - constitute venting one’s spleen or carping?

      If you’d taken the time to read my posts, you’d have seen that I’ve trekked the Kokoda Track with one of the operators you allege is “dodgy”.  You’d also have noticed that in my experience, that operator was far from dodgy.  On the contrary, they were model professionals.  I wrote:

      “I’ve trekked with the company involved and know that they carry a satellite phone (eg, which I used to call my family one evening from Jap’s Ladder) and employ porters and group leaders with relevant first aid certificates (eg, our personal porter certainly had a first aid certificate).  I also know that the company has an extraordinary safety record (eg, none of their trekkers have ever required a medivac evacuation).”

      I maintain that your claims about recent deaths being preventable are wrong, especially given fundamental facts including the actual cause of death are unknown.  (Who’s pretending to be the medical expert now, Charlie?)

      However, rather than resorting to insult (as you have done by implying that I am somehow venting my spleen or carping), I took the quite reasonable approach of agreeing to disagree and wishing you well.  It would’ve been nice if you’d extended the same courtesy and respect to me.

      All of the above, of course, illustrates another key point I’ve been trying to make, namely that you apply double standards.  Eg, (1) if a trekker dies with another operator, the operator is “dodgy”, but if a trekker dies with Adventure Kokoda, then the trekker is unfit.  Eg, (2) Charlie Lynn setting out his views on the Kokoda Track is valid opinion, but if others like myself do the same, or worse still offer a different view, it all of a sudden becomes venting one’s spleen or carping.

      Charlie, you’ve revealed yourself to be thin skinned.  If you’re not prepared to engage in debate and tolerate different views, perhaps The Punch is not the place for you.

    • David says:

      02:57pm | 27/10/09

      I should’ve confirmed also that I have no pecuniary interest in any trek operators.

      My principal interest is in promoting the development of local PNG trek operators and staff.  After all, it’s their land, culture and history.

    • Pete says:

      03:37pm | 30/11/09

      Last month I wrote on this blog concerning issues related to recent deaths on the Kokoda Track. I also commented on the double standards and hypocrisy shown by Charlie Lynn when he reflected and commented on the operations of other trek operators who were unfortunate enough to have trekkers die whilst on one of their treks.As David so accurately points out, instead of discussing the issues, Lynn attacks the person, name calling and inferring ulterior motives towards comments related to his company.
      To finalize this issue let me make a few points abundantly clear.
      Yes Charlie Lynn I have trekked Kokoda. I trekked Kokoda with your company on Anzac Day 2008. I have no pecuniary interest in any trekking company or organisation connected with trekking.
      I you also wrote you an email in respose to your post trek survey but you did not have the courtesy or good manners to write a reply. That email was dated may 16th 2008 @1204 pm.
      in that email I was critical of your company for not having a trek leader at the front and back of our walking group at all times as stated in our pre trek briefing.
      I was also, as an example, critical of how a small group of slower walkers including myself arrived at a lunchtime checkpoint/ river crossing after trekking from 0700 hrs to 1440 hrs and our food consisted of a few broken biscuits and cheese. The quicker group had consumed all the other food.
      I also commented that in regard to proper leadership and support, I considered it inappropriate and unprofessional that the second in charge staff member had his girlfriend along on the trek, even if she was a paid trekker. Proper leadership and support demands total support to clients at all times including the tail enders.
      As an advanced life support paramedic who has just completed post graduate qualifications in intensive care paramedic studies I am well qualified to speak on the issues of sudden cardiac death.I am not a google first aid blogger , as you so rudely inferred.
      So there it is Mr Lynn , I hold no personal animosity towards you or your company , although I personally when asked, advise people not to trek with your company .Hopefully your supercilious and intemperate comments have finished in this matter.

    • Charlie Lynn says:

      11:57pm | 12/02/10

      David,
      Great stuff mate - but where was the satphone when they had the emergency? Where was their VHF radio? Where was their rear link in Port Moresby? Why did their trek leader send me a message asking to use my satphone or radio to call for help? Why didn’t the note they sent me not mention her name of the person in distress, her medical condition, exact location, travel insurance details, or reliable contact in Port Moresby?

      And Peter - please tell both your mates NOT to trek with us - the last thing we want on our treks is another whingeing Pom.

    • Pete says:

      11:24pm | 24/03/10

      Charlie: I note with interest you have again tried to personalise this discussion and “play the man rather than the ball” which seems fairly consistent in the way you have answered criticism in this blog so far.In earlier discussions you asked have I trekked Kokoda and with which company?
      I told you in the blog that it was your company “adventure kokoda”. I also commented that on our trek with your company there was not a leader at the front and back of the group for most of the trek. When one of our group injured his knee, both of our “leaders” were at the lunch stop much further ahead. This is poor leadership and poor safety protocols. Why was there inadequate provision of food for the tailend members of the group arriving later than the initial group at our designated lunchstop.Is it satisfactory that your deputy trek leader had his girlfriend trekking with him and that he was not able to give full commitment to the other paying trekkers?  Whilst some considered it “cute” to refer to the couple as the “honeymooners”, I considered it unprofessional There were other matters I raised as well in the post trek survey but you chose not to replyin any form.
      By raising this and other issues in a public discussion forum and highlighting inadequacies with our trek and your inability to cope with criticism of yoursef or your company, I am branded by you ,as a whingeing Pom. Your ego unfortunately prevents you having a logical and rational discussion on these matters. For you edification I am neither whingeing nor am I a Pom.I am an Australian of Irish heritage. Respect is earned not demanded or expected. It does not come with what epaulettes you once wore on your shoulders.You would do well to remember this and engage in civil,proper and fair comment in the future. I will, through my emergency services and wider social contacts, continue to encourage prospective trekkers to consider operators such as No Roads, Kokoda Spirit and KTL to trek with . I would not under any circumstances recommend your company given my experiences trekking with it.

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